There are 32 different known types of hamsters in the world. There may be more that are undiscovered, the thing with wild hamsters is they are almost never seen. Hamsters even in captivity are extremely nocturnal, so wild hamsters are skewed to this life style even more. The fact that they are extremely nocturnal and are usually found at 18+ feet under ground, it's very rare to run across a hamster in the wild unless actively looking for them.
Though there are so many types in the wild there are only technically 5 types available in captivity. The Syrian, the Campbells dwarf hamster, the Winter White dwarf hamster, the Robo dwarf hamster, and the Chinese dwarf hamster. In the US commercial pet trade there are no known pure bred strands of Campbells or Winter White dwarf hamsters, only hybrids. The only way to get a pure strand for sure is through a reputable hamster breeder.
Why does having a hybrid over a purebred matter? Unlike with mixed breed dogs, mixed sub-species of hamsters, the two dwarf species, are not healthier when mixed. In fact they are more likely to have not only a myriad of physical health problems but also many behavioral health problems.
The minimum cage size for hamsters is 450 sqaure inches of uninterrupted floor space. However I personally think this only applies for single dwarves, especially robos, and only depending on their individual needs. I don't think you should go any smaller as their permanent cage, but larger can often be far better. Though sometimes too large too quickly can be detrimental. Syrians in my personal opinion should have a cage floor space minimum of uninterrupted 650 square inches. More territorial hamsters often do better with larger cages and deeper substrate.
I prefer making bin cages, with wire squares attached to at least one side and the top. The wire always needs to be no bigger than 1 inch by 1 inch openings and made only of galvanized wire. Attachment can be done by wire or cable ties depending on your hamster. It is amazing how much a hamster's behavior can change with a larger cage. No commercial cages available in the US stores are acceptable for any sized hamster that I know of.
Hamsters have constantly growing teeth. There are certain ways to take care of this, wooden toys (though some hamsters never chew on wood), providing lab blocks in their diet, providing nuts with shells, cookies made for dogs that have hamster safe ingredients and low fat preferably, also a dog dental chew called Whimzees, the mini alligator or toothbrush is usually a fine size for a hamster (any other dental chew is usually unsafe). Seed blocks or cookies for hamsters sold in pet stores are usually high in artificial sugars and fats, and have little to no nutritional value. I have started making my own seed blocks where I control every ingredient that goes in, instead of using cane syrup and honey to stick it together, I use small amounts of honey (around 1 and a half teaspoons in a couple cups worth seed mix) and an egg. I also add a small amount of protein in the form of a tablespoon of mealworms per batch, and also add a few pinches of dried berries. I am also working on making rodent safe cookies, with a total of five ingredients in them to bake for my hamsters, which would be perfectly safe for rats or mice, and even dogs.
Foods (I currently do not feed commercial foods of any sort)... there are many types of acceptable commercial foods out there. However in my mind they still have unnecessary additives in the form of probiotics/vitamins/ minerals, all in a raw form, which are harder for hamsters to digest. The only reason these are necessary to add, is because of how their food is processed. A lot of pellets and lab blocks have unnecessary added sugars in the form of molasses and cane sugar. However it is perfectly possible to make a healthy diet out of commercial foods. A normal adult dwarf or syrian hamster needs 18% protein, 5%-6% fat, 8-15% fiber. Robos need a much higher protein level even as adults, they do best at 20-22% protein, 7-8%, 8-15% fiber. Growing pups, at 6 months or below need 22%-24% protein for dwarves and syrians, and for Robos always shoot for 24%. These levels can be reached with a seed mix and some sort of protein booster. Protein boosters can be anything from lab blocks to multiple types of freeze dried meats and insects. However each hamster is an individual especially with their diet, so what be good for a few other hamsters may be severely bad for the current hamster you have. You must pay attention to your hamsters weight.
Hamsters need the chance to be able to get to a vet if needed. Just because they are small pets does not mean they won't eventually need a vet, and usually small animal vets can be relatively expensive.
What you want to look for in a good lab block and seed mix, is something that has no or few added dyes, no unhealthy preservatives and no dangerous ingredients. Hamsters should be offered fresh food on a regular basis, this means fresh vegetables, a few fruit, and some types of healthy unseasoned meats. Whoever has told the public that hamsters are purely vegetarian are totally wrong. Hamster's are omnivores and actually do better on a higher protein content than most rats. In the wild they hunt and eat insects, they also scavenge dead animals when they run across them. However their diet is largely grains, seeds, and vegetation.
Wheels are relatively important to hamsters who will use them, however there are often hamsters who will never use them. In my opinion these hamsters need larger cages than minimum because they don't get the usual exercise they would with a hamster who use a wheel. Toys and hideys are severely important to keep hamsters entertained.
Bedding, I only use Kaytee Clean and Cozy, with no scent. Carefresh has more dust and can be a problem with rodent with Upper Respiratory Problems. Wood shavings are safe if you use Aspen, no types of soft wood combinations are safe as they are known for causing cancer, cedar and pine aren't safe at all. Anything labeled as odor control is most likely filled with baking soda which is known for causing Upper Respiratory Problems in rodents and possibly death.
Disclaimer: Just because I make my own food, does not mean you should. In fact I don't recommend for most people, I did months of research, it is not cheap compared to commercial foods unless you have a bulk store near you who can provide you with everything. It also takes a lot of time and observational skills. You have to know what a healthy hamster looks and acts like and have to have the funds to take your hamster to a good small animal vet.
Soon to be posts for hamsters- Taming Syrians, Dwarves, and Robos
Keeping multiple hamsters together
What goes into my Homemade food, and how it has affected the health of my hamsters
What creates diabetes in hamsters?
Different product reviews I personally use
Different Treats I make (though I will not be putting exact recipes I will be selling them)
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