I have dealt with all species of hamsters in commercial trade in California. Which means I have Syrians and Campbells, Winter Whites and Robos. Most of my hamsters have come to me from hard times, or they have been bought by me specifically because they were on sale and I chose those that were most aggressive.
Syrians are everyone's preferred hamsters (at least for new hamster owners) so far as temperament goes. A lot of people say that Syrians are the easiest to tame and the friendliest from the get go. I have realized this is not always true. The only hamster I have ever owned that has shown taming capabilities but also shows no desire to further relationships with humans at all is a Syrian. I can pick him up and touch him without getting bit at all. But he generally hates human contact, and is the most likely to jump out of your hands than any of my other 6.
I have a Robo hamster who is worse than my Syrian in the fact he shows no ability to be tamed and generally wants no human contact. But my other Syrian seeks out human affection, and I've never actually needed to tame him, he was immediately affectionate and open to holding. I have all types of Winter Whites and Campbells, and hybrids between the two, some who came to me openly friendly and desperate for attention, some who are hard to tame but get there, and then there are the ones who most people would likely give up on. One of my favorite hamsters I have ever had was one of the most aggressive in the beginning, it took 6 months until I could safely hold him without him obsessively chewing on my hand in the process and mauling me. I am not one of those people who says "oh, just throw on some glove and get him used to it that way." Honestly, I believe if you need gloves to handle your hamster you are moving too fast for your hamster and it is biting you for a reason. The only reason I would ever use gloves or a towel for handling a hamster is for medication dosing or for emergency purposes.
At the last 2-3 months of Icarus's life he was extremely affectionate. He wanted to be held all the time, wanted to be talked to and taken out daily. It was worth the waiting most of the time he was with us, just to have him enjoy our company so much when he was taken out.
Taming with any hamster should start with at LEAST 2 weeks of no handling other than necessary feeding and watering or if you have a hamster who needs meds etc. I prefer to go 3-4 weeks for most of my less severe cases. Trust me the extra time does help.
After the settling in phase, you want to start accustoming your hamster to you presence. Spend time around him/her. Maybe read a book out loud when near his/her cage. Scent some toilet paper by rubbing it on your hands and then place it near his/her house, then it will be his/her choice to use it. Which eventually all hamsters do. I do this until the hamster shows less fearful and skittish behaviors, it shouldn't run full out and hide once you are in the room and messing around. A little bit of a startle is ok, but otherwise your hamster should be used to your presence before starting the next phase.
This phase is when contact starts, by now you should have learned you hamster's favorite foods. You can start with a seed or nut that is regularly available in the seed mix and then start mixing it up from there. Almost all my hamsters love pumpkin seeds and will readily take them from my fingers as treats. I do have a few who are more protein oriented, or veggie/fruit oriented. Now what you do is you offer it to your ham, I will wait sometimes for 10 minutes just holding it in my fingers and having my hand in the middle of the cage.
If the hamster shows stress or bites you, remove your hand and take a step back. This should not be happening. Try going to one of the earlier steps of taming. If it sniffs you but walks away just leave the treat and walk away from the cage (it was a success, small but a success). Do not reward a hamster for negative reactions, nothing like boxing or biting should be rewarded. Anything showing outright stress means you should not give a treat and should instead just leave. At this point in your relationship you trying to stick out an interaction will just make it worse. If your hamster immediately takes the treat offered, mark the word with his/her name or something similar. Trust me, hamsters are just as easy to train about being good and knowing their names as a dog. All my individual hamsters know their names. If your hamster accepts the treat, have a few extra on hand. Do not push for holding yet. You should be able to treat feed safely without any problems for 2 weeks at least before attempting to hold at all.
For different personalities there will be different ways to approach picking up. Some of my hamsters are so social with me I don't have to wait for them to wake up fully before picking them up (I don't recommend trying this with a new hamster), these hamsters also don't really care if I scoop them or just reach in and pick them up. Some of my hamsters have to absolutely be two hand-scooped. And then I have some I have to lure out onto my hand with a treat. Remember they are ALL different individually and all require a huge amount of accomodation for each individual.
Showing posts with label health. Show all posts
Showing posts with label health. Show all posts
Sunday, March 12, 2017
Monday, January 9, 2017
Dog Training Basics- Simple Commands No Dog Should Be Without
So training dogs in the beginning should be fun, there should be no behavioral work if you can help it, only in extreme cases should there be behavioral training in the beginning. In the first month or two of being with your dog, it should be about building that bond, making sure they see you as that amazing person who takes them to fun places and provides them with those amazing treats. That doesn't mean you shouldn't be able to start the foundations of a well trained dog and a safe dog. These basic commands are commands that not only are easy to learn, but are seriously important to teach for safety reasons. Teaching these commands require no punishment of any kind and nothing but happy times. When it is done correctly, give a treat, when nothing happens then try again. If nothing continues to happen, ask these questions: how long has the training session been going on? and, is how I am trying to train this command getting through to this dog?
Now a training session of any new command or behavior should not be for longer than 15-20 minutes and afterward it should be followed by something fun and tension releasing such as a heavy play session, or a nice walk/run even it's only for 30 minutes. Remember an exhausted dog, both mentally and physically is not just overall happier, but also less likely to get into trouble. Training basic commands is usually pretty simple and usually the way I am going to write about is the best way to build the bond between a new dog and their owner, they are also relatively fool proof as most dogs will learn them all several different ways and one way usually works just as well as with the others. However, as Dewey as the example, certain dogs don't respond well to certain words and either don't learn them or don't react normally and healthily when you say the word. That is when you find a word that works better, just because it's different doesn't mean it's any less than any other word. Now as far as the action you get to do them to do it, you honestly want to avoid physically pushing them or moving them into the position if you can help it. Remember you have just gotten this dog, you technically don't really know all the issues it could have, you want to build a good relationship between you two before you even start introducing any sort of bodily anything into your relationship (whether that is corrections or whatever). Now I understand if that is unavoidable in some situations, but preferably we won't have to be in situations like that if we don't have to.
So onto the basic training-
Sit: Simple and something that every dog should know as it is a good basic command to start position training that can lead to the sit and stay, the sit then lay down, the sit can then lead to a stand. etc.
As your dog is standing, carefully take a treat, something that smells amazing, and lure his nose to realize you have it in your finger tips and make him much more attentive to you. Then slowly lure his nose backward until you are tracing his nose back to his head almost in a way. Don't be too close and don't be too far, be just an inch out of his reach, if you are too far he will be encouraged to try and jump to bite it out of your hand. If you've done it right, his nose should follow your fingers back and his butt should automatically hit the floor. Once it does you mark the action with either the word "yes" or "good". Something simple and to show he has done a good job. Don't even try adding the command yet. Instead immediately give the treat and offer praise and pets. The next time he does it successfully once again no command. Then the third time you add the command and the hand signal you wish to use instead of the marker praise word. Eventually you work with the command word and the consistent luring/hand signal until your dog has it well in mind, then you only use the hand signal and word command, no longer offering treats like you used to, instead you offer treats from places hidden around the house, and places on your body if you are out and about. I recommend if you have an incredibly smart dog (like I have dealt with) that you switch up your stash spots on a regular basis or they will learn where they are and not perform their command until they see your hand in the area where the expected treat is. I have learned this the hard way sadly.
Lay (lay down or down): Use any word form you want. I will use lay down for this purpose, as it is what I taught Dewey.
You want to have preferably taught your dog sit by now. Lay down will follow from a sit position. So lure your dog into a sit position, then bring a high value training treat in front of it's nose. Waft it about until your dog once again becomes interested. Then like before with Sit command lure his nose by keeping it just about an inch in front of it the entire time. Slowly bring it down almost straight and ending up in between the paws, then slowly, hopefully with your dog's nose still following the treat, drag the treat outward until your dog follows it and it should automatically end up in a laying position. Once again, when you get the desired act, mark with the "yes" or "good" marker word you have chosen, and reward with treat and lots of love. Once the trick is well learned through this method, which it should only take three to five times of repeated actions, add the command word you want. Continue to teach with the command word and hand signal you choose, until you are at the stage where you need to wean off.
Stay (Wait): There's not many variations people use on this command, but hey whatever works for you and your dog.
I usually start from a sit position, preferably you will have a lighter leash or some sort of light rope to use as a control lead (and usually this will be longer than the usual leash your dog is walked with). With a slow calm voice you say the command and connect a hand motion with it, I usually do some sort of stop signal with my hand. Say the command, slow and firmly. Then walk back several places with a treat obviously in your hand but not leading your dog with it. If it moves to follow you, say no (not harshly) and place the dog in the exact same place and position it was in before. Once again give the command and follow through if your dog does the opposite of what you want. Continue to do this until the dog stays where you want, I recommend only going five to seven steps back and waiting ten seconds once you stop to make sure your dog stays. Then step quickly towards your dog and mark the stay command with the "yes" marker word, and a treat. Do not give the treat or any sort of praise if you dog leaves the spot before you reach it or give the marker word. If this takes longer than 15 minutes, do not end until you have had at least one successful stay, once you have you can end it. Always end training sessions on good terms.
Leave it: This also doesn't have many variations. What this command allows is many things a simple "no" won't do. Leave it allows the dog not to think the certain item it is supposed to leave is completely horrible and bad to never touch it, leave it allows you to have control for the moment. It also doesn't make the dog think it is in trouble for what it's doing and allows it to think for itself in many ways. A lot of what I use Leave it for is completely natural instinct for dogs and I don't want a dog to think it is bad for doing something that it's body tells it to do, however I do want my dog to think and know that there are other options.
Leave it is often started from the sit position, though it works from generally any position, it often works best from some sort of position you cause because then the dog's brain is already in the "training" set of mind. Get some sort of really smelly treat, preferably a favorite of your dog's. Hold it tightly in your fist, so your dog can't get to it and allow your dog to nuzzle and sniff/worry your hand. As soon as your dog stops worrying your hand and looks at it expectantly, mark the action with the "yes" marker word and a treat. Do this several times until the dog starts doing it almost immediately, once that starts happening (it should take three times averagely) mark it now with the "Leave it" command and a treat. After a few sessions where they successfully do this without trying to eat the treat, you can start putting the treat on the ground and saying leave it and don't be afraid to continually enforce the command several times so your dog completely leaves it alone.
These are the four basics that every dog should start with, these are the platforms for everything else. My next dog training post will be about behavioral issues and how to deal with them.
Now a training session of any new command or behavior should not be for longer than 15-20 minutes and afterward it should be followed by something fun and tension releasing such as a heavy play session, or a nice walk/run even it's only for 30 minutes. Remember an exhausted dog, both mentally and physically is not just overall happier, but also less likely to get into trouble. Training basic commands is usually pretty simple and usually the way I am going to write about is the best way to build the bond between a new dog and their owner, they are also relatively fool proof as most dogs will learn them all several different ways and one way usually works just as well as with the others. However, as Dewey as the example, certain dogs don't respond well to certain words and either don't learn them or don't react normally and healthily when you say the word. That is when you find a word that works better, just because it's different doesn't mean it's any less than any other word. Now as far as the action you get to do them to do it, you honestly want to avoid physically pushing them or moving them into the position if you can help it. Remember you have just gotten this dog, you technically don't really know all the issues it could have, you want to build a good relationship between you two before you even start introducing any sort of bodily anything into your relationship (whether that is corrections or whatever). Now I understand if that is unavoidable in some situations, but preferably we won't have to be in situations like that if we don't have to.
So onto the basic training-
Sit: Simple and something that every dog should know as it is a good basic command to start position training that can lead to the sit and stay, the sit then lay down, the sit can then lead to a stand. etc.
As your dog is standing, carefully take a treat, something that smells amazing, and lure his nose to realize you have it in your finger tips and make him much more attentive to you. Then slowly lure his nose backward until you are tracing his nose back to his head almost in a way. Don't be too close and don't be too far, be just an inch out of his reach, if you are too far he will be encouraged to try and jump to bite it out of your hand. If you've done it right, his nose should follow your fingers back and his butt should automatically hit the floor. Once it does you mark the action with either the word "yes" or "good". Something simple and to show he has done a good job. Don't even try adding the command yet. Instead immediately give the treat and offer praise and pets. The next time he does it successfully once again no command. Then the third time you add the command and the hand signal you wish to use instead of the marker praise word. Eventually you work with the command word and the consistent luring/hand signal until your dog has it well in mind, then you only use the hand signal and word command, no longer offering treats like you used to, instead you offer treats from places hidden around the house, and places on your body if you are out and about. I recommend if you have an incredibly smart dog (like I have dealt with) that you switch up your stash spots on a regular basis or they will learn where they are and not perform their command until they see your hand in the area where the expected treat is. I have learned this the hard way sadly.
Lay (lay down or down): Use any word form you want. I will use lay down for this purpose, as it is what I taught Dewey.
You want to have preferably taught your dog sit by now. Lay down will follow from a sit position. So lure your dog into a sit position, then bring a high value training treat in front of it's nose. Waft it about until your dog once again becomes interested. Then like before with Sit command lure his nose by keeping it just about an inch in front of it the entire time. Slowly bring it down almost straight and ending up in between the paws, then slowly, hopefully with your dog's nose still following the treat, drag the treat outward until your dog follows it and it should automatically end up in a laying position. Once again, when you get the desired act, mark with the "yes" or "good" marker word you have chosen, and reward with treat and lots of love. Once the trick is well learned through this method, which it should only take three to five times of repeated actions, add the command word you want. Continue to teach with the command word and hand signal you choose, until you are at the stage where you need to wean off.
Stay (Wait): There's not many variations people use on this command, but hey whatever works for you and your dog.
I usually start from a sit position, preferably you will have a lighter leash or some sort of light rope to use as a control lead (and usually this will be longer than the usual leash your dog is walked with). With a slow calm voice you say the command and connect a hand motion with it, I usually do some sort of stop signal with my hand. Say the command, slow and firmly. Then walk back several places with a treat obviously in your hand but not leading your dog with it. If it moves to follow you, say no (not harshly) and place the dog in the exact same place and position it was in before. Once again give the command and follow through if your dog does the opposite of what you want. Continue to do this until the dog stays where you want, I recommend only going five to seven steps back and waiting ten seconds once you stop to make sure your dog stays. Then step quickly towards your dog and mark the stay command with the "yes" marker word, and a treat. Do not give the treat or any sort of praise if you dog leaves the spot before you reach it or give the marker word. If this takes longer than 15 minutes, do not end until you have had at least one successful stay, once you have you can end it. Always end training sessions on good terms.
Leave it: This also doesn't have many variations. What this command allows is many things a simple "no" won't do. Leave it allows the dog not to think the certain item it is supposed to leave is completely horrible and bad to never touch it, leave it allows you to have control for the moment. It also doesn't make the dog think it is in trouble for what it's doing and allows it to think for itself in many ways. A lot of what I use Leave it for is completely natural instinct for dogs and I don't want a dog to think it is bad for doing something that it's body tells it to do, however I do want my dog to think and know that there are other options.
Leave it is often started from the sit position, though it works from generally any position, it often works best from some sort of position you cause because then the dog's brain is already in the "training" set of mind. Get some sort of really smelly treat, preferably a favorite of your dog's. Hold it tightly in your fist, so your dog can't get to it and allow your dog to nuzzle and sniff/worry your hand. As soon as your dog stops worrying your hand and looks at it expectantly, mark the action with the "yes" marker word and a treat. Do this several times until the dog starts doing it almost immediately, once that starts happening (it should take three times averagely) mark it now with the "Leave it" command and a treat. After a few sessions where they successfully do this without trying to eat the treat, you can start putting the treat on the ground and saying leave it and don't be afraid to continually enforce the command several times so your dog completely leaves it alone.
These are the four basics that every dog should start with, these are the platforms for everything else. My next dog training post will be about behavioral issues and how to deal with them.
Monday, December 12, 2016
Homemade Hamster Food
Sources of good fats: walnuts, blanched sweet almonds,
roasted peanuts, flax seeds, sunflower seeds, chia seeds, sesame seeds, pumpkin
seeds, roasted soynuts, millet
Protein: sesame seeds, sunflower seeds, pumpkin seeds,
roasted peanuts, walnuts, blanched sweet almonds, freeze dried turkey,
mealworms, roasted soynuts, flax seed, millet, quinoa, chia seeds, hard red
wheat berries, nutritional yeast flakes, barley, spelt flakes, freeze dried chicken
liver, freeze dried crickets, freeze dried chicken, freeze dried river shrimp
Macrominerals and Trace mineral-
Calcium: basil, sesame seeds, spirulina, chia seeds
Phosphorous: sesame seeds, spirulina, sunflower seeds, flax
seeds, pumpkin seeds, chia seeds
Iodine: spirulina, oat, wheat berries
Selenium: chia seeds, wheat berries, sunflower seeds, sesame
seeds, walnuts, blanched almonds
Iron: chia seeds, basil, spirulina, sesame seeds
Molybdenum: blanched almonds, peanuts, walnuts, barley,
sunflower seeds, nutritional yeast flakes
Vitamins-
Vitamin A: carrot, spirulina, freeze dried chicken liver,
bell peppers, basil, parsley
Vitamin D: freeze dried chicken liver
Vitamin E: sunflower seeds, blanched almonds, peanuts, basil,
pumpkin seeds, sesame seeds, chia seeds, parsley, bell peppers, cranberries,
carrots
Vitamin K: basil, carrot, spirulina, parsley, dried berries,
carrots, bell peppers
Thiamin: spirulina, sunflower seeds, flax seeds, sesame
seeds, barley, oats, peanuts, carrots, bell peppers, parsley
Riboflavin: spirulina, blanched almonds, basil, freeze dried
chicken liver, bell peppers, freeze dried turkey, carrots, sunflower seeds, chia
seeds, sesame seeds, pumpkin seeds
Niacin: peanuts, carrots, basil, freeze dried turkey, freeze
dried chicken liver, bell peppers, sunflower seeds, barley, carrots, parsley
Pantothenic Acid: Sunflower seeds, bell peppers, freeze
dried chicken, freeze dried turkey, wheat berries, carrots, spirulina
Pyridoxine: basil, millet, sesame seeds, freeze dried
turkey, freeze dried chicken, sunflower seeds, bell peppers, carrots, spirulina
Biotin: blanched almonds, oats, peanuts, carrots, walnuts,
nutritional yeast, wheat berries, roasted soynuts, berries, cranberries,
sunflower seeds, freeze dried chicken liver
Folic Acid: basil, carrots, sunflower seeds, peanuts, flax seeds,
blanched almonds, parsley, bell peppers, quinoa
Vitamin B12: freeze dried chicken liver, freeze dried
chicken, freeze dried turkey
So this isn't a complete ingredient list, but this is very close. I now have 32 regular ingredients. I don't weigh my ingredients by grams anymore, I have realized it's pretty much useless anymore, I know how much each of my hamsters generally need and eat in each department of fat/protein/carbs. Each of my hamsters (though I have different species many of them are the same since I have six) need extreme differences in their diet for what is recommended individually. I just use volume measurements even when doing my base food mix, and then alter it from there when I feed each hamster. This is why I don't include measurements, I also don't sell my food at all... because hamsters are hugely different for each individual, and generally each person who would feed their hamster it needs to know what a healthy hamster looks like. In general all my hamster lost an extreme amount of weight for the first week or two, then they gained it back in lean muscles. They lost a lot of what I call excess fat.
Most of my hamsters are rescue hams, so they come to me in some sort of bad shape or being fed crap food. I have two I want to discuss in detail, one is my severely aggressive dwarf ham and my other is a syrian who has some physical problems with his hips and and muscle atrophied side. My dwarf hamster, Icarus, actually had a bad bacterial infection that started to heal itself when I switched him to the homemade mix that the vet said was a really good choice and his aggression and anxiety in general has reduced. My syrian, Badger, I have adjusted his food to have more lean proteins and omega-3 fats, his hips are moving better and his atrophied side has actually gained muscle which it never has before. I am very happy with how it has helped not just them but also everyone else. If any of my readers have any questions about my food, I will gladly answer them.
Sunday, November 20, 2016
Different Hamster Types and Basic Care
There are 32 different known types of hamsters in the world. There may be more that are undiscovered, the thing with wild hamsters is they are almost never seen. Hamsters even in captivity are extremely nocturnal, so wild hamsters are skewed to this life style even more. The fact that they are extremely nocturnal and are usually found at 18+ feet under ground, it's very rare to run across a hamster in the wild unless actively looking for them.
Though there are so many types in the wild there are only technically 5 types available in captivity. The Syrian, the Campbells dwarf hamster, the Winter White dwarf hamster, the Robo dwarf hamster, and the Chinese dwarf hamster. In the US commercial pet trade there are no known pure bred strands of Campbells or Winter White dwarf hamsters, only hybrids. The only way to get a pure strand for sure is through a reputable hamster breeder.
Why does having a hybrid over a purebred matter? Unlike with mixed breed dogs, mixed sub-species of hamsters, the two dwarf species, are not healthier when mixed. In fact they are more likely to have not only a myriad of physical health problems but also many behavioral health problems.
The minimum cage size for hamsters is 450 sqaure inches of uninterrupted floor space. However I personally think this only applies for single dwarves, especially robos, and only depending on their individual needs. I don't think you should go any smaller as their permanent cage, but larger can often be far better. Though sometimes too large too quickly can be detrimental. Syrians in my personal opinion should have a cage floor space minimum of uninterrupted 650 square inches. More territorial hamsters often do better with larger cages and deeper substrate.
I prefer making bin cages, with wire squares attached to at least one side and the top. The wire always needs to be no bigger than 1 inch by 1 inch openings and made only of galvanized wire. Attachment can be done by wire or cable ties depending on your hamster. It is amazing how much a hamster's behavior can change with a larger cage. No commercial cages available in the US stores are acceptable for any sized hamster that I know of.
Hamsters have constantly growing teeth. There are certain ways to take care of this, wooden toys (though some hamsters never chew on wood), providing lab blocks in their diet, providing nuts with shells, cookies made for dogs that have hamster safe ingredients and low fat preferably, also a dog dental chew called Whimzees, the mini alligator or toothbrush is usually a fine size for a hamster (any other dental chew is usually unsafe). Seed blocks or cookies for hamsters sold in pet stores are usually high in artificial sugars and fats, and have little to no nutritional value. I have started making my own seed blocks where I control every ingredient that goes in, instead of using cane syrup and honey to stick it together, I use small amounts of honey (around 1 and a half teaspoons in a couple cups worth seed mix) and an egg. I also add a small amount of protein in the form of a tablespoon of mealworms per batch, and also add a few pinches of dried berries. I am also working on making rodent safe cookies, with a total of five ingredients in them to bake for my hamsters, which would be perfectly safe for rats or mice, and even dogs.
Foods (I currently do not feed commercial foods of any sort)... there are many types of acceptable commercial foods out there. However in my mind they still have unnecessary additives in the form of probiotics/vitamins/ minerals, all in a raw form, which are harder for hamsters to digest. The only reason these are necessary to add, is because of how their food is processed. A lot of pellets and lab blocks have unnecessary added sugars in the form of molasses and cane sugar. However it is perfectly possible to make a healthy diet out of commercial foods. A normal adult dwarf or syrian hamster needs 18% protein, 5%-6% fat, 8-15% fiber. Robos need a much higher protein level even as adults, they do best at 20-22% protein, 7-8%, 8-15% fiber. Growing pups, at 6 months or below need 22%-24% protein for dwarves and syrians, and for Robos always shoot for 24%. These levels can be reached with a seed mix and some sort of protein booster. Protein boosters can be anything from lab blocks to multiple types of freeze dried meats and insects. However each hamster is an individual especially with their diet, so what be good for a few other hamsters may be severely bad for the current hamster you have. You must pay attention to your hamsters weight.
Hamsters need the chance to be able to get to a vet if needed. Just because they are small pets does not mean they won't eventually need a vet, and usually small animal vets can be relatively expensive.
What you want to look for in a good lab block and seed mix, is something that has no or few added dyes, no unhealthy preservatives and no dangerous ingredients. Hamsters should be offered fresh food on a regular basis, this means fresh vegetables, a few fruit, and some types of healthy unseasoned meats. Whoever has told the public that hamsters are purely vegetarian are totally wrong. Hamster's are omnivores and actually do better on a higher protein content than most rats. In the wild they hunt and eat insects, they also scavenge dead animals when they run across them. However their diet is largely grains, seeds, and vegetation.
Wheels are relatively important to hamsters who will use them, however there are often hamsters who will never use them. In my opinion these hamsters need larger cages than minimum because they don't get the usual exercise they would with a hamster who use a wheel. Toys and hideys are severely important to keep hamsters entertained.
Bedding, I only use Kaytee Clean and Cozy, with no scent. Carefresh has more dust and can be a problem with rodent with Upper Respiratory Problems. Wood shavings are safe if you use Aspen, no types of soft wood combinations are safe as they are known for causing cancer, cedar and pine aren't safe at all. Anything labeled as odor control is most likely filled with baking soda which is known for causing Upper Respiratory Problems in rodents and possibly death.
Disclaimer: Just because I make my own food, does not mean you should. In fact I don't recommend for most people, I did months of research, it is not cheap compared to commercial foods unless you have a bulk store near you who can provide you with everything. It also takes a lot of time and observational skills. You have to know what a healthy hamster looks and acts like and have to have the funds to take your hamster to a good small animal vet.
Soon to be posts for hamsters- Taming Syrians, Dwarves, and Robos
Keeping multiple hamsters together
What goes into my Homemade food, and how it has affected the health of my hamsters
What creates diabetes in hamsters?
Different product reviews I personally use
Different Treats I make (though I will not be putting exact recipes I will be selling them)
Though there are so many types in the wild there are only technically 5 types available in captivity. The Syrian, the Campbells dwarf hamster, the Winter White dwarf hamster, the Robo dwarf hamster, and the Chinese dwarf hamster. In the US commercial pet trade there are no known pure bred strands of Campbells or Winter White dwarf hamsters, only hybrids. The only way to get a pure strand for sure is through a reputable hamster breeder.
Why does having a hybrid over a purebred matter? Unlike with mixed breed dogs, mixed sub-species of hamsters, the two dwarf species, are not healthier when mixed. In fact they are more likely to have not only a myriad of physical health problems but also many behavioral health problems.
The minimum cage size for hamsters is 450 sqaure inches of uninterrupted floor space. However I personally think this only applies for single dwarves, especially robos, and only depending on their individual needs. I don't think you should go any smaller as their permanent cage, but larger can often be far better. Though sometimes too large too quickly can be detrimental. Syrians in my personal opinion should have a cage floor space minimum of uninterrupted 650 square inches. More territorial hamsters often do better with larger cages and deeper substrate.
I prefer making bin cages, with wire squares attached to at least one side and the top. The wire always needs to be no bigger than 1 inch by 1 inch openings and made only of galvanized wire. Attachment can be done by wire or cable ties depending on your hamster. It is amazing how much a hamster's behavior can change with a larger cage. No commercial cages available in the US stores are acceptable for any sized hamster that I know of.
Hamsters have constantly growing teeth. There are certain ways to take care of this, wooden toys (though some hamsters never chew on wood), providing lab blocks in their diet, providing nuts with shells, cookies made for dogs that have hamster safe ingredients and low fat preferably, also a dog dental chew called Whimzees, the mini alligator or toothbrush is usually a fine size for a hamster (any other dental chew is usually unsafe). Seed blocks or cookies for hamsters sold in pet stores are usually high in artificial sugars and fats, and have little to no nutritional value. I have started making my own seed blocks where I control every ingredient that goes in, instead of using cane syrup and honey to stick it together, I use small amounts of honey (around 1 and a half teaspoons in a couple cups worth seed mix) and an egg. I also add a small amount of protein in the form of a tablespoon of mealworms per batch, and also add a few pinches of dried berries. I am also working on making rodent safe cookies, with a total of five ingredients in them to bake for my hamsters, which would be perfectly safe for rats or mice, and even dogs.
Foods (I currently do not feed commercial foods of any sort)... there are many types of acceptable commercial foods out there. However in my mind they still have unnecessary additives in the form of probiotics/vitamins/ minerals, all in a raw form, which are harder for hamsters to digest. The only reason these are necessary to add, is because of how their food is processed. A lot of pellets and lab blocks have unnecessary added sugars in the form of molasses and cane sugar. However it is perfectly possible to make a healthy diet out of commercial foods. A normal adult dwarf or syrian hamster needs 18% protein, 5%-6% fat, 8-15% fiber. Robos need a much higher protein level even as adults, they do best at 20-22% protein, 7-8%, 8-15% fiber. Growing pups, at 6 months or below need 22%-24% protein for dwarves and syrians, and for Robos always shoot for 24%. These levels can be reached with a seed mix and some sort of protein booster. Protein boosters can be anything from lab blocks to multiple types of freeze dried meats and insects. However each hamster is an individual especially with their diet, so what be good for a few other hamsters may be severely bad for the current hamster you have. You must pay attention to your hamsters weight.
Hamsters need the chance to be able to get to a vet if needed. Just because they are small pets does not mean they won't eventually need a vet, and usually small animal vets can be relatively expensive.
What you want to look for in a good lab block and seed mix, is something that has no or few added dyes, no unhealthy preservatives and no dangerous ingredients. Hamsters should be offered fresh food on a regular basis, this means fresh vegetables, a few fruit, and some types of healthy unseasoned meats. Whoever has told the public that hamsters are purely vegetarian are totally wrong. Hamster's are omnivores and actually do better on a higher protein content than most rats. In the wild they hunt and eat insects, they also scavenge dead animals when they run across them. However their diet is largely grains, seeds, and vegetation.
Wheels are relatively important to hamsters who will use them, however there are often hamsters who will never use them. In my opinion these hamsters need larger cages than minimum because they don't get the usual exercise they would with a hamster who use a wheel. Toys and hideys are severely important to keep hamsters entertained.
Bedding, I only use Kaytee Clean and Cozy, with no scent. Carefresh has more dust and can be a problem with rodent with Upper Respiratory Problems. Wood shavings are safe if you use Aspen, no types of soft wood combinations are safe as they are known for causing cancer, cedar and pine aren't safe at all. Anything labeled as odor control is most likely filled with baking soda which is known for causing Upper Respiratory Problems in rodents and possibly death.
Disclaimer: Just because I make my own food, does not mean you should. In fact I don't recommend for most people, I did months of research, it is not cheap compared to commercial foods unless you have a bulk store near you who can provide you with everything. It also takes a lot of time and observational skills. You have to know what a healthy hamster looks and acts like and have to have the funds to take your hamster to a good small animal vet.
Soon to be posts for hamsters- Taming Syrians, Dwarves, and Robos
Keeping multiple hamsters together
What goes into my Homemade food, and how it has affected the health of my hamsters
What creates diabetes in hamsters?
Different product reviews I personally use
Different Treats I make (though I will not be putting exact recipes I will be selling them)
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